hyperpigmentation

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Concealing a Birthmark with Cream Foundation (my 2012 routine)

This is sure to be one of the most helpful posts I will ever write for someone who wants to cover up a birthmark, tattoo, or acne. It’s all thanks to a new full-coverage makeup that I have been using for a couple months now. It’s time to share my findings with the world, so let’s get to it!

This a lengthy post, but well worth the read. I’m breaking it up into these sections:
  • The problems with most full-coverage foundations
  • Product reviews of an amazing makeup & brush
  • My routine for how to conceal a birthmark

The Problems with Most Full-Coverage Foundations

I’ve tried many full-coverage foundations (DermaBlend, CoverBlend, DiorSkin, Avon, to name a few). Heck, I’ve even had a professional makeup artist try airbrushing my birthmark with a Dior airbrush system. I’ve been wearing makeup on my birthmark since I was in 5th grade–about 15 years ago–and up until a month ago I had never found a foundation that doesn’t have the problems that full-coverage foundations typically have, such as:
  • the color doesn’t match my skin tone
  • it’s expensive
  • it’s greasy or thick/heavy and it creases
  • it wears off by the end of the day
  • it makes me break out

It’s frustrating, and I know I’m not alone on this.

Then, one blessed day I spontaneously walked into a Sephora, and my life changed forever.
Long story short, I received a makeover by a professional makeup artist who works at Sephora. The makeup she used not only made me look like a model, but the foundation made my birthmark practically disappear! You had to squint to see it! The foundation is Laura Mercier Secret Camoflauge (I’m olive/light skinned, so I got tint SC-1). I also purchased the brush she used to apply it: Sephora Collection Pro – Foundation Air Brush #47.

Product Reviews: Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage & Sephora Collection Pro – Foundation Air Brush #47

Laura Mercier’s Secret Camouflage is the bomb-diggity for sure. It contains two shades that work together to create your perfect tint. It’s described as a concealer, but you apply it the same as you would a foundation. One shade matches your skin’s undertone, and the other shade matches the skin’s depth of color. The makeup is not heavy, and it blends and distributes well. It doesn’t make my acne-prone skin break out, and when paired with a good primer and setting powder (see next section for application tips), it stays in place ALL DAY with little creasing (depending on activity and humidity/heat levels). Secret Camouflage sells for $28.

I normally cheap out on makeup brushes, so when I found out the Sephora Collection Pro – Foundation Air Brush #47 is a whopping $32, my eyes might have popped out of my head. However, this is the brush the pro makeup artist at Sephora used on me to get the best results I’ve ever experienced, so I closed my eyes and swiped my credit card. I’m glad I did. The brush is densely packed with bristles (it’s very thick!), and it distributes my foundation very nicely. It’s well made, so I’m sure it will last for a long time.

My Routine for How to Cover a Birthmark with Makeup

You will need:

1. Start fresh. I wash my face with Olay Foaming Face Wash for Sensitive Skin. Moisturize and apply an SPF too. Lately, I’ve been using Solar Sense Sun Damage Restoration facial cream. It’s a moisturizer with SPF 15 as well as beneficial ingredients for your skin like allantoin, aloe vera, peptides, and more.

2. Apply a primer. I use Laura Geller Spackle Under Make-up Primer. It’s $25 for 2oz at Ulta–that’s a great deal as far as primers go. It’s oil-free and suitable for acne-prone skin. Let it dry before moving on.

3. Apply foundation. Load your foundation brush with both shades included in your Secret Camouflage compact. Over time you’ll figure out the perfect shade ratio for your needs. I use double the shade on the left to the shade on the right, aka 2:1. Apply a light layer at first, and then build it up if you need to. If you’re trying to disguise a birthmark, apply the foundation PAST the edges of your mark, and feather it out. After you’ve blended it in, gently stipple the entire area to create a natural skin texture.

4. Apply a setting powder. I use DermaBlend Setting Powder – Colorless (the white one, not the tinted one). It’s $23 at Ulta. The powder poof it comes with is terrible, so I don’t use it. Instead, I shake the bottle while it’s closed, then open it to find loose powder sitting on top of the grate. Then I apply the loose powder with a large powder brush. I let it set for about 5 minutes, and then I lightly blend it in and remove excess powder. Not only does this powder make the Laura Mercier makeup stay on much longer, but it prevents creasing, and it makes my skin feel like silk–not greasy like makeup tends to do when used by itself.

Let’s review!

  1. Start with a clean, moisturized, sun-protected face.
  2. Apply an oil-free primer. Let it dry.
  3. Apply makeup. Build it up. Feather out the edges. Stipple.
  4. Apply a setting powder. Let it sit 5 minutes. Use a large powder brush to gently blend it in/remove excess powder.

Wa-lah! If you try this technique, comment and let me know how it worked for you. Be sure to mention what you’re trying to cover, be-it a birthmark, acne, rosacea, et cetera.