Makeup for Birthmarks

Here’s a quick post since I get asked this question more than any other:
How do I cover my birthmark?

First please note, I am not a professional makeup artist, and I am not a doctor. I only have and am familiar with one kind of birthmark: cafe au lait. It’s on my face and neck, so I use Revlon ColorStay on it. ColorStay is about 75% full coverage. It does a darn good job for a drugstore foundation, and if I applied 2 coats probably would be 85%). ColorStay is cheap, awesome and I’m happy with it. I have used it for 5 or 6 years.

Here’s some other foundation recommendations to try, but know this. THERE IS NO PERFECT FULL COVERAGE FOUNDATION. I have tried all these listed. Some cover better than others, but they alllllll crease. I don’t care if you use a primer and a setting spray. They’ll help a little, but please realize, you’re putting a thick lotion-y substance on your oil-producing porous skin. Creases are going to happen. Touch-ups will be necessary. No foundation is 100% full coverage. Moreso 90% at best. It took me years to finally accept this truth. That’s why I stick with the cheap $13 ColorStay. To me, it’s not worth purchasing a $40 foundation that, yeah, will cover a little better, but creases AND will block pores because of its thickness, resulting in acne. Food for thought.

*Revlon Colorstay (budget)
*Tarte Amazonian Clay 12-hour Full coverage foundation
Coverblend
Dermablend
IT Cosmetics
*Laura Mercier Secret Camoflauge
Dior NudeSkin
*Asterik denotes that these foundations have been reviewed in depth on my blog. So be sure to click their links to read my reviews on them, and also visit this blog post for mini reviews on the above foundations: Foundations I’ve tried and some I haven’t.

I haven’t tried these, but people with cystic acne have had luck with them. If you’ve tried them, comment below:
Make Up Forever’s HD Invisible Cover Foundation
Make Up Forever Mat Velvet + Mattifying Foundation
Estee Lauder Double Wear Stay-in-Place Makeup
Estee Lauder Double Wear Maximum Cover Camouflage for Face and Body

If you have a big budget or a small birthmark, give concealers a try. Just keep in mind they can sometimes be even thicker than full-coverage foundations, thus they will be very prone to creasing and may cause breakouts too.

Use a primer and for sure a setting spray or powder. I highly recommend:
NYX HydraTouch Primer
NYX Dewy Finish Settings Spray or Everyday Minerals Finishing Powder.

For those with a purple colored birthmark such as a port-wine stain:
Since your mark is purple in color, and yellow is the complimentary color of purple, perhaps try an under-eye corrective primer or concealer before applying foundation. Under-eye correctors are typically yellow in tone since under-eye issues tend to be purple. That’s my best guess. Let me know in the comments if you try this and how it went!

EVERYONE:  Stop into a Sephora and ask their makeup pros to try foundation on you. They’re familiar with what’s available, and what works. That’s how I’ve tried the above foundations. The makeup artists love the challenge.

If you want the short and easy answer, here it is based on my personal experience. Try Revlon ColorStay. If that doesn’t work, try Tarte or Laura Mercier Secret Camoflauge next. Lastly, comment below with your suggestions and reviews (good or bad) with full-coverage foundations. Let’s all help each other out :)

My Favorite Face Products of 2017

Once again, it’s been a long time since I’ve last posted, and my beauty regime has changed fairly dramatically. Right to it…here we go.

Let me begin by saying DIET IS THE MOST POWERFUL WAY TO CHANGE YOUR SKIN HEALTH. More specifically, healthy fats. This has by far given me the most visible positive results in comparison to any product I’ve used on my face this year. I use far less makeup now because of my diet revival.

Diet Backstory: I’ve always been into health and fitness. I’m an ingredient label-checker. From 2014-2016, because I was weightlifting heartily 5-6 days a week, the majority of my diet was carbs, next protein (eating more or less my body weight in grams, so anywhere from 90-115g), and low-fat….because fat makes you fat…right? WRONG. Carbs–even ‘good’ carbs like fruit and sweet potatoes and all that jazz–store fat. I got myself to a point where my hormones were an still are messed up, I have insomnia, adrenal fatigue…I couldn’t even do a low intensity weightlifting session without getting dizzy, lightheaded and being sensitive to light. I became afraid of working out. And in the past year, I’ve lost all my gains and my motivation to workout. I’m slowly starting out again so I don’t disturb my cortisol levels. Healing is going to take more than 6 months. I knew my diet wasn’t great, but wasn’t sure how to fix it. With the help of a holistic place, I started the ketogenic diet 8 weeks ago. I’m pulling the strings a little now and moving to a high fat, low-carb diet now because while I do love eating bacon everyday, bunless hamburgers, steak and loading my veggies with butter, I gotta have bananas, apples, carrots, quinoa and sweet potatoes, and ice cream every so often. Keto is restrictive for it to work, and I don’t think it’s a diet for everyone, but that’s another topic for another blog. My point is, I use to eat low fat. I’d maybe have red meat 1x per week for the sake of my iron levels, rarely used butter, you get the point. I was fairly ripped, but how was my hair and skin health you ask? It looked like a hamster was sitting in my tub drain every time I showered (mind you, my hair is curly and I don’t brush it, so I do lose more in the shower), but my hair was pretty thin. My skin, kinda dry. Acne not terrible, but I knew diet could decrease it. Since upping my fats (we’re talking like 200g per day!) and dramatically lessening my carbs (started out at 30g net carbs/day), my hair began to feel healthier…more oily in a good way. Not a gross, dirty, can’t style it way. I lose way less hair now. 1/3 of what I was losing before. And my skin…I don’t feel like I need moisturizer. I don’t get that tight feeling. (But I still lightly use moisturizer.)

PRODUCTS

I’m going to make this next part simple. Because seriously people, skin health BEGINS INSIDE. De-inflame yourself. Our society sees food as rewards. It’s not. It’s fuel. Stop buying $40 face creams for your face meanwhile eating McDonalds, breads, and sugary foods. Or just give me your money instead because you are, for the most part, wasting it. ;)

My favorite fats for healthy, hydrated hair and skin:
Avocados, avocado oil, coconut oil, extra virgin olive oil, Kerrygold butter, steak, nitrite/nitrate free bacon fat, almonds, macadamia nuts, pecans.

My favorite face wash is:
BURT’S BEES RENEWAL REFINING CLEANSER.
My most favorite product of 2017. It’s soap-free and has tiny exfoliating beads that I feel have helped my acne. It does leave a little bit of a coating on your skin, so if you like a squeaky clean feeling, you may not like this product.
I also like OLAY GENTLE CLEAN FOAMING CLEANSER. I’ve been using this product for 5+ years. It’s reliable, gentle, great at removing makeup, and cheaper than Burt’s. I use it on days I wear little to no makeup and don’t feel the need to exfoliate, though before I started using Burt’s, this was all I used and it worked absolutely fine.

My favorite toner:
WITCH HAZEL or DILUTED TEA TREE OIL.
Anything else is a gimmick and a waste. Look at the ingredients of many toners and you’ll see witch hazel.

My favorite AM moisturizer with sunscreen is:
BURT’S BEES RENEWAL FIRMING DAY LOTION W/ SPF 30.
This is a thick moisturizer, but I will continue to use it because the ingredients are beneficial (apple + watermelon, and no phalates, parabens, petroleum, or SLS), and the active ingredients in the sunscreen are right on the mark of what you want in a sunscreen (Titanium dioxide + Zinc Oxide). I HATE the way it’s packaged though. The container is glass, and because the product is thick, once it gets down to 1/3 left, it’s near impossible to get product out. They need to fix this. A squeeze tube design would be wayyy better.
CERAVE FACIAL MOISTURIZING LOTION AM W/ SPF 30.
I’ve used this product for several years. It’s great! It’s far less thick than Burt’s renewal  day lotion. If I’m being nit-picky, the reason I prefer Burt’s over this is that this contains Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate. I try to stay away from anything with the word aluminum in it. It also has parabens, and 4 sunscreen ingredients. I like to try to stick to titanium dioxide + zinc oxide. Still, if you are on a budget, this is a fantastic product. It contains niacinamide and ceramides. Coupon available on the CeraVe website!

My favorite sunscreen is:
CERAVE SUNSCREEN FACE LOTION SPF 50. 
There’s a $2 off coupon on CeraVe’s website. I use either the Burt’s renewal day lotion above OR this. Never both together. This is slightly less thick than Burt’s renewal lotion. Usually I use this when I know I’m going to be outside for a long time. I do love CeraVe and their ceramides, niacinamides and great prices. This product uses the key sunscreen players: Titanium dioxide + Zinc Oxide. Hip hip hooray!

My favorite PM moisturizers:
BURT’S BEES RENEWAL FIRMING NIGHT CREAM
CERAVE FACIAL MOISTURIZING LOTION
I rotate every couple days between these two for a 2 reasons. 1) Burt’s night cream is pricey, and 2) Burt’s is thick and I don’t need a thick lotion every night. But man, does a little go a long way. I’ve had it for a month now and can tell it’s going to last me a while. Both products have great and different ingredients.

My favorite makeup is:
These days, I would summarize my makeup style as low-cost, ingredient conscious (for the most part; I don’t look into eye makeup ingredients), and a basic/minimalistic/clean face. I HATE when ladies load and contour their faces with makeup. To me it’s unrealistic and too much work, for what?

I’m still using Everyday Minerals Jojoba base for everyday wear with Revlon ColorStay on my birthmark. Been using these two products for 5-6 years now. For nicer events, I use Urban Decay Naked on my face (and ColorStay on my birthmark). Once I use up what I have, I plan to get away from Naked because it creates smile line and under the eye and eyelid creases even with a primer. My favorite primer is NYX Hydra Touch Primer (good ingredients), and I set with NYX Dewy Finish Spray. The spray really sets that full-coverage ColorStay makeup well, especially with it being on a creasy area: my neck. If you prefer a setting powder as opposed to spray, I recommend Everyday Minerals Finishing powder. For eyes, I like Smashbox Always Sharp black eyeliner with it’s built-in sharpener. I have pretty much zero issues with it smearing, and it goes on easy. For mascara, Loreal Volumnious Original. I rarely use mascara, and this is a fantastic, reliable and cheap mascara. My blush for years now is Everyday Minerals. I don’t even buy it…I just use the samples or get freebies when I purchase their other products.
**I finally gave Bare Minerals a try this year, and while the coverage was silky and nice, it creased so bad it became embarrassing…Kinda like when you have spinach in your teeth and your friend doesn’t tell you. I’d come home from work, look in the mirror and be horrified by the obvious makeup creases. Plus it’s more expensive than Everyday Minerals…so a win-win for me and Everyday Minerals.

How to Cover a Nevas of Ota [Video Tutorial]

A reader named Gabriela recently commented:

Can you please share my YouTube video of how I cover my birthmark on my makeup? [I’m] trying to get it as out there as possible for anyone else wanting to cover their marks or just wanting to know if DermaBlend really works before they buy it. I really want to help the girls or guys who have this. It’s called nevus of ota. It’s a birthmark that is on your face…some people like me have it cover 50% of their face. It’s different from a portwine stain because it can only be removed by laser, and even then it may come back and be darker. It’s almost very hard to cover up with make up.

Gabriela, thank you for sharing! I am more than happy to post your YouTube link. It will help any nevas of Ota readers!

Gabriela uses:
Primer: An oil free acne face cream
Foundation: Golden Beige DermaBlend creme
Setting powder: Beige DermaBlend setting powder
Setting spray: Urban Decay setting spray

My 2013 Full Coverage Makeup routine – The Holy Grail

I’m going to make this short and sweet. Enough said! Here we go!

TIP:

*Be sure to clean your makeup brushes regularly. I very rarely use my brushes on a dirty face, so with that in mind, I clean my brushes 1-2x/mo with soap and water. I clean my eyeliner brush weekly though.

PREP:

– Wash face with Olay Foaming Face Wash – Sensitive (‘sensitive’ simply means fragrance free, which means less irritatation, which means fewer breakouts.)

– Dab face dry – don’t rub.

– Facial sunscreen. Currently I’m using Alba Botanica Natural Very Emollient Facial Suncreen SPF30. Let it dry thoroughly (~ 5 mins).

– Face primer. I’ve only ever used Laura Geller Spackle Original (Clear). It has natural ingredients, and you get a good bang for your buck. Use a nickel-sized amount. Let that dry thoroughly (~ 3 mins).

MAKE-UP:

– I generously apply my mineral foundation, Everyday Minerals Matte base in ‘Fairly Light’ with my Everyday Minerals Flat Top Brush in round circular motions to my face. I apply it less generously to my birthmark area. Aside from it being my foundation, I feel this powder foundation provides a matte surface to work off of in regards to my birthmark area (which is on my jaw and neck).

– Pour a nickel-sized amount of Revlon ColorStay Foundation (I use the Combo/Oily in shade Buff). Dab foundation onto birthmark with middle finger. Start in the center of your birthmark and work your way towards the edges. Right now you’re just distributing the makeup onto the skin surface, so don’t focus on blending yet.

– After your entire birthmark has foundation on it, continue to dab/stipple with your finger, only now focus on smoothing out the makeup. Add a little wiping motion to help with this. Now focus on blending the edges by using a light wiping motion starting from the edges of your birthmark and moving outward about 1-2 inches. Fade it out–that’s what blending is. This way you don’t have a hard-edged line of color from where your makeup stops. If you want fuller coverage, repeat the previous step and this step.

– After letting the liquid foundation dry for a few minutes, use a large, soft Round Brush and stipple Everyday Minerals Finishing Dust just onto the areas where you used Revlon ColorStay. This acts as a finishing powder, and also mattifies. And holy moly does this finishing dust work!

– From here I wet a tissue and wipe off my eyebrows, eyelashes, and lips (From when I put mineral foundation all over my face). Then I do my eyeliner, mascara, blush…whatever other steps I decide upon.

I did this routine one morning before spending a good half a day in the heat helping nail together a house frame…I was sticky and sweaty, but my makeup was silky, dry, and was not creased!
I’ve found the holy grail folks.

Concealing a Birthmark with Cream Foundation (my 2012 routine)

This is sure to be one of the most helpful posts I will ever write for someone who wants to cover up a birthmark, tattoo, or acne. It’s all thanks to a new full-coverage makeup that I have been using for a couple months now. It’s time to share my findings with the world, so let’s get to it!

This a lengthy post, but well worth the read. I’m breaking it up into these sections:
  • The problems with most full-coverage foundations
  • Product reviews of an amazing makeup & brush
  • My routine for how to conceal a birthmark

The Problems with Most Full-Coverage Foundations

I’ve tried many full-coverage foundations (DermaBlend, CoverBlend, DiorSkin, Avon, to name a few). Heck, I’ve even had a professional makeup artist try airbrushing my birthmark with a Dior airbrush system. I’ve been wearing makeup on my birthmark since I was in 5th grade–about 15 years ago–and up until a month ago I had never found a foundation that doesn’t have the problems that full-coverage foundations typically have, such as:
  • the color doesn’t match my skin tone
  • it’s expensive
  • it’s greasy or thick/heavy and it creases
  • it wears off by the end of the day
  • it makes me break out

It’s frustrating, and I know I’m not alone on this.

Then, one blessed day I spontaneously walked into a Sephora, and my life changed forever.
Long story short, I received a makeover by a professional makeup artist who works at Sephora. The makeup she used not only made me look like a model, but the foundation made my birthmark practically disappear! You had to squint to see it! The foundation is Laura Mercier Secret Camoflauge (I’m olive/light skinned, so I got tint SC-1). I also purchased the brush she used to apply it: Sephora Collection Pro – Foundation Air Brush #47.

Product Reviews: Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage & Sephora Collection Pro – Foundation Air Brush #47

Laura Mercier’s Secret Camouflage is the bomb-diggity for sure. It contains two shades that work together to create your perfect tint. It’s described as a concealer, but you apply it the same as you would a foundation. One shade matches your skin’s undertone, and the other shade matches the skin’s depth of color. The makeup is not heavy, and it blends and distributes well. It doesn’t make my acne-prone skin break out, and when paired with a good primer and setting powder (see next section for application tips), it stays in place ALL DAY with little creasing (depending on activity and humidity/heat levels). Secret Camouflage sells for $28.

I normally cheap out on makeup brushes, so when I found out the Sephora Collection Pro – Foundation Air Brush #47 is a whopping $32, my eyes might have popped out of my head. However, this is the brush the pro makeup artist at Sephora used on me to get the best results I’ve ever experienced, so I closed my eyes and swiped my credit card. I’m glad I did. The brush is densely packed with bristles (it’s very thick!), and it distributes my foundation very nicely. It’s well made, so I’m sure it will last for a long time.

My Routine for How to Cover a Birthmark with Makeup

You will need:

1. Start fresh. I wash my face with Olay Foaming Face Wash for Sensitive Skin. Moisturize and apply an SPF too. Lately, I’ve been using Solar Sense Sun Damage Restoration facial cream. It’s a moisturizer with SPF 15 as well as beneficial ingredients for your skin like allantoin, aloe vera, peptides, and more.

2. Apply a primer. I use Laura Geller Spackle Under Make-up Primer. It’s $25 for 2oz at Ulta–that’s a great deal as far as primers go. It’s oil-free and suitable for acne-prone skin. Let it dry before moving on.

3. Apply foundation. Load your foundation brush with both shades included in your Secret Camouflage compact. Over time you’ll figure out the perfect shade ratio for your needs. I use double the shade on the left to the shade on the right, aka 2:1. Apply a light layer at first, and then build it up if you need to. If you’re trying to disguise a birthmark, apply the foundation PAST the edges of your mark, and feather it out. After you’ve blended it in, gently stipple the entire area to create a natural skin texture.

4. Apply a setting powder. I use DermaBlend Setting Powder – Colorless (the white one, not the tinted one). It’s $23 at Ulta. The powder poof it comes with is terrible, so I don’t use it. Instead, I shake the bottle while it’s closed, then open it to find loose powder sitting on top of the grate. Then I apply the loose powder with a large powder brush. I let it set for about 5 minutes, and then I lightly blend it in and remove excess powder. Not only does this powder make the Laura Mercier makeup stay on much longer, but it prevents creasing, and it makes my skin feel like silk–not greasy like makeup tends to do when used by itself.

Let’s review!

  1. Start with a clean, moisturized, sun-protected face.
  2. Apply an oil-free primer. Let it dry.
  3. Apply makeup. Build it up. Feather out the edges. Stipple.
  4. Apply a setting powder. Let it sit 5 minutes. Use a large powder brush to gently blend it in/remove excess powder.

Wa-lah! If you try this technique, comment and let me know how it worked for you. Be sure to mention what you’re trying to cover, be-it a birthmark, acne, rosacea, et cetera.